Outdoor News at Poorfish.com

Important Benefits of a Live-Well

2012-05-18T11:00:00Z

The live-well is a combination of artificial lake environment, traveling aquarium, fish motel, emergency room, and a source of bragging rights. Before the advent of catch and release for bass anglers, we did not have live-wells in the average fishing boat. Many anglers simply pulled a stringer out of their tackle box and dropped it over the side of the boat. In fact, the most a well equipped angler had was a large cooler with lots of ice, after all most fish went to the freezer anyway.

As tournament fishing grew in popularity and the fishing pressures increased, the concept of catch and release quickly gained a solid support first from tournament anglers and later weekend anglers. Catch and release also included penalties for dead fish. This prompted improvements in live-well equipment and configuration as well as water conditioners and additives to increase the chance that the fish arrived at the weigh in station healthy and "kickin".

So you ask yourself, ‘how does my live-well stack up?’ Or, you may be in the market for new fishing gear or specifically that next boat. What should you look for in a high quality live-well? What features should be there? If you already have a live-well, ask yourself ‘do I have to live with built in problems or can I make it better?’

First start with water volume, do you know how many gallons your live-well holds? Most anglers will agree the more water the better. Increasing the volume of water increases the dispersion of waste produced by the fish. This provides potentially available oxygen by increasing the amount of water to contain it (increased carrying capacity), and provides more space for fish to occupy to avoid overcrowding. Pay attention to whether the live-well has sufficient depth for the fish (especially larger ones) to comfortably remain upright, instead of lying on their sides which is not a natural position for fish. Shallow live-wells simply don't do as good a job, especially as you bounce around on the waves (which bounces the fish too).

Next you should look for at least a dual pumping system, again more is better. You should have a filling pump for fresh water and a recalculating or aeration pump, both of which should have automatic and manual operating modes. Get the bigger or higher volume pumps to move more water. Aerating pumps that pump air into the stream of water are better than those that only pump water, simply because they increase the amount of air/water surface interface which is where the oxygen molecules mix into the water. If you can, have extra pumps installed. There is always the possibility of a breakdown and a spare pump could make the difference between dead fish and live ones.

Make sure that the pipes and plumbing for the live-well are maintained and up to date. If the tubing is too small, foreign objects (like those regurgitated stomach contents) could clog the flow and hamper their proper function. Check them throughout the day to make sure that water is flowing as you expect it to. Carry a hose or hand pump to backflush drain tubes if they get clogged. A small fish net (like they have in aquarium stores) can be used to extract floating debris (or regurgitated waste) from the live-well.

Check the live-well for sharp objects or construction flaws that could possibly leave burrs and splinters which can harm fish. If you have a live-well partition, check the circulation holes in your live-well partition to be sure that the edges are not sharp. Use an Emory cloth to smooth out exposed edges of plastic. Buff down any exposed fiberglass that feels rough. Check all screws, rivets, and seams in metal fittings and fixtures. File down anything that is rough. Any rough edge that cannot be filed down should be protected with a coating of Silicon Caulking. Be sure you use the kind sold in aquarium stores to prevent using a toxic compound (don't just buy it at the hardware store because it’s cheaper, you might be substituting one problem for another). Feel with your hands under the lids and any areas you cannot visually inspect. I once put my hand in a back corner, behind the lid and up under the deck, when I pulled my hand back as the result of experiencing a sharp pain I was bleeding in four places! There was raw fiberglass back there! To top it off this was in a brand new, beautiful, high end Hydro Blaster! Not a good idea if you want to keep those fish healthy. Check, check, and when you're done, check again. Lids should be padded on the inside. When you're done with your live-well retrofit (or purchasing inspection) you should feel comfortable putting your baby sister in that live-well (Now, I meant when she was a baby, come on guys!) without any chance for injury.

Taking Care of Your Live-well

What do you do with your live-well when it's not in use? Do you store the boat in the carport or the garage, or does it stay outdoors. When a live-well is stored it can morph into a problem. Many anglers, pressured by time and their many chores, are in a hurry to put up the boat and get back to their other priorities. This frequently means that the live-well is closed while still wet inside. Water in the fill tubes and bottom of the live-well become growth tanks for bacteria and fungus. Fish slime and regurgitated stomach contents coat the surfaces and become growth media for the bacteria and other nasty critters. Closed live-well temperatures rise and increase the growth. The next time the angler uses the boat, the live-well is frequently not opened up until the first bass is caught!! You start filling the well and plop in the fish not realizing that you've put the fish into a toxic and dangerous environment. The result: more stress to the fish, more fish which die before the weigh-in, and even more importantly, more delayed mortality. The fish can be released alive, but they've been infected with bacterial and fungal agents which contribute to a slow and merciless death later on the bottom of the lake.

So how do you prevent this from happening? Start by making sure the live-well is dry before storing the the boat. If there are obvious stomach contents, fish slime, or residues on the sides of the live-well, make sure you rinse the insides thoroughly and flush out the contaminants. Wash your live-well with an anti-bacterial soap periodically to sterilize the interior. Remember to do a good job of rinsing out the cleaning agents before you dry the interior. If you blast it with the hose, and any bubbles form you need to rinse again. Prop your live-well doors open to help air circulate in the interior to keep it dry.

Once you launch the boat and are motoring in clean water, open the valves and fill the live-well with clean cool lake water. Don't wait until you have a fish to fill the tank. This additional rinse also cleans the interior to help the fish survive. Lastly, use a commercially prepared live-well treatment. These products (there are several on the market) typically do several different things for you and the fish. They stimulate slime production, anesthetize the fish to control their stress levels and prevent them from injuring themselves in the live-well. They also contain anti-bacterial and anti-fungal agents, stabilize the pH, and buffer the water. They can even help to heal hook wounds and treat pre-existing injuries and skin infections.

Your live-well is not just a bucket of water to hold fish destined for the fry pan. Take your live-well to the next level. The knowledgeable angler wants to make sure that catch and release really works. Take care of your live-well and it will take care of both your fish and you!

What was your experience with Live-wells? Do you have any tips for the novice user? Share with others by leaving a comment below on the outdoor news section and find all your fishing sporting goods at PoorFish Outdoors.

Minn Kota PowerDrive V2 Trolling Motor: A Must for Boating Anglers

2012-05-17T12:34:00Z

A lot of the best fishing requires the use of a boat to access the hottest fishing spots or the areas where the fish are holding a pattern. During the most placid of days, there shouldn’t be a problem, but as we all know, conditions can change at the drop of a hat. All of a sudden you have some wind gusts that will throw you and your boat off course or away from a school of fish you are targeting. This might be one of the most frustrating components to fishing from a boat and makes for a lot of time wasted trying to get repositioned. There is a solution to your windy fishing problems, a Minn Kota PowerDrive V2. The ability to control your boat is extremely important since it puts you in prime fishing areas, so having an under-powered trolling motor or one that is too small for your boat size is going to significantly hinder your ability on the water.

Minn Kota offers anglers and boaters the PowerDrive V2 which is a top-of-the-line trolling motor featuring AutoPilot, Universal Sonar 2, and compatibility with the CoPilot wireless system. This bow-mounted motor has powered me through some powerful gusts of winds and held me steady on rougher waters so that we can continue catching fish. The Minn Kota PowerDrive V2 comes in a variety of sizes including 45, 55, and 70 pound models. For most boat applications, the 55-pound thrust motor will be the appropriate size.

Take note of the quick and easy deployment of the V2 thanks to the Deploy-Assist Lever. Anyone could use the Minn Kota PowerDrive V2 simply based on the ease-of-use. The Deploy-Assist Lever is pulled down and the motor will drop in the water. You also have the added benefit of the Digital Mazimizer Technology from Minn Kota. Essentially, the Digital Maximizer Technology improves the trolling motor’s efficiency, extends the battery life, and allows each battery charge to last up to five times longer than others.

Feature 1: AutoPilot

Essentially, the AutoPilot feature does exactly what it says. I find it of great benefit since it means I can spend more time dropping my fishing line and less time driving the boat. What makes it stand out from other “auto-pilot” systems is the literal, hands-off usability. Using the AutoPilot is as easy as just pointing yourself in the right direction, set the speed, and push a button. When a wind gust comes through or you hit a rough patch of water, the AutoPilot feature will self-adjust and compensate for the change in conditions. AutoPilot is ideal for drop-shot fishing since it can hold you over an area without much attention at all. Point your boat into the wind, adjust the speed to the strength of the wind and push AutoPilot, it really is as easy as 1-2-3. Most, but not all of the Minn Kota PowerDrive V2 models have AutoPilot, so before purchasing make sure the model you are contemplating has AutoPilot available.

Feature 2: Universal Sonar 2

The other feature of the Minn Kota PowerDrive2 that really makes this a stand-out trolling motor is the use of Universal Sonar 2, also known as US2. With a built-in transducer, the PowerDrive V2 will work with any model or brand of sonar head unit when you use the right adapter cable. What makes the US2 different is the temperature-sensing compatibility and it is completely protected from submerged obstacles and any abuse it might take from strong waters.

Feature 3: CoPilot Wireless Remote Compatibility

Take the hands-off approach one step further and add the Minn Kota CoPilot Wireless Remote system to your Minn Kota PowerDrive V2 trolling motor. The remote control technology allows you to control the steering and speed from anywhere on the boat. The removal of the foot pedal when you add the CoPilot frees up floor space that can be used for extra coolers for all the fish you are going to catch or for the other angler you are showing off your new trolling motor to.

It’s not easy choosing a trolling motor since they are such a large expenditure. It’s important to know what you are getting and how much it will aid in your fishing. While it might seem like the best idea is to go with a trolling motor that is a little lighter on the pocket book, I promise you the extra investment will be worth it. When you have difficulty hovering over the fish or you are rushing back and forth from fishing rod to motor, you will be kicking yourself for not getting the Minn Kota PowerDrive V2 trolling motor.

What type of trolling motor do you use? Share with others by leaving a comment below on the outdoor news section and find all your fishing sporting goods at PoorFish Outdoors.

Getting the Most Out of Your Spincasting Reel

2012-05-16T10:01:00Z

Spincast reels have long had the stigma of being just for the novice angler, but they are an affordable option for a freshwater reel. While it might be the simplest of reels and easiest to use, spincasting reels are not without their down falls or issues that you have to overcome. They have the ability to be just as productive as a baitcasting reel or a spinning reel.

Spincast reels have gotten their reputation based on their past manufacturing quality and you will still find that some of the less expensive spincast reels still have those issues. There have been improvements made to the reels that make them a more viable option for the everyday angler. These newer models will have higher quality gears, better drag, and have the ability to crank in some decent fish! However, there are still some issues you may face when it comes to using a spincast reel, but there are ways to work around or prevent them all together. The issues that come with using a spincast reel are dealing with spool issues, twisted line, and shorter casts.

Spool Concerns

Most of the time narrow, shallow spools with a low line capacity is a problem with spincast reels. Typically, a spincasting reel will hold roughly 60 to 100 yards of fishing line, depending on the pound test you use. While this may not seem like much line on the spool, very rarely will you need more than that. As any angler knows, over time you will lose some of that yardage, whether it’s because you have had to cut it because of kinks or snapped fishing line. You have the ability to add more line to the spool, but because of the way the reel is constructed it’s not always the easiest to access. Because you can’t actually see the fishing line under the reel cap many people don’t realize they have very little line left until its too late. Before the start of the season or before your next outing, check out your line capacity to make sure you have enough.

In order to combat this problem, you will need to re-spool your spincast reel often which is actually quite simple. You will need to remove the reel cover and take off any old line that is left. With the fresh line, wind the line on under tension until it is about 1/8 of an inch from the top of the lip. Be very careful not to overfill the spool, if you do, the line will get stuck under the spinner and you won’t be able to cast. Should this occur, take the cover back off, press the button or trigger, remove the line by unwinding, and start over.

Line Twisting

Dealing with twisted fishing line frustrates every angler whether they are using a spincast reel or another variety because it inhibits casting and can lead to further line issues like snags. This is a very easy problem to prevent and is simply done by reeling in under tension, using a swivel, and not reeling against a slipping drag. There are some upgraded spincast reel models that have a system built-in that will prevent the line from twisting from drag slippage. If this is a problem you often face, I would suggest going for one with a drag system built into the drive shaft.

When you are reeling in a line with a light object on the end, always maintain some tension on the line by letting the line run through your thumb and forefinger. Use the hand that is holding the rod and reel and only when you are retrieving, not fighting with a fish. The whole purpose of holding the line is to control the slack and stretch in the fishing line.

Casting

Fist and foremost, casting with a spincast reel is a little different than other fishing reels. You must press the push-button or trigger, hold it through your back cast, and at just the right moment release it in your forward cast to get distance. Typically, anglers cast with one hand, but if you want greater accuracy you should probably use both. If you are right handed, hold the fishing rod and reel in your left so the handle is facing you. Hold the fishing line with your left forefinger against the spool opening and use your right thumb to push the button, pointing the tip of your fishing rod towards your target. Start your backcast there and when you hit your target on the forward movement of your cast. If you cast correctly, the fishing line should fly over your left forefinger and with a little extra pressure; you can guide the line with increased upward pressure from your forefinger.

Do not expect to be casting a million miles since its just not meant to happen with a spincasting reel. Because of the way spincasting reels are designed, more areas of the reel come in contact with the line creating friction that slows the cast speed.

Choosing the Right Tackle

If you are fishing for small bass, trout, catfish, or panfish you should be able to get by with 4 to 8 pound test line. If you are going for the typical size fish of those species, I would recommend opting for a little heavier line in the 8 to 14 pound test line.

Most spincast tackle you find is more affordable than other types of tackle in the same category, but you will still find a variety of prices attached to the fishing gear. I would recommend going with a spincast reel that is middle of the road. You get much greater benefits out of a little more pocket change. Look for spincast reels that have dual grip handles, continuous anti-reverse, and ceramic pins.

What issues do you run into with spincast reels? Share your tips and fixes with other anglers by leaving a comment below on the outdoor news section and find all your fishing sporting goods needs at PoorFish Outdoors.

Fishing in the Wind, Good or Bad

2012-05-15T11:00:00Z

It was an excellent morning to go fishing. The sun was shining bright and felt warm on my face in the cool morning air. There was a slight breeze blowing in the bright blue cloudless sky. Every angler looks forward to perfect days like these to partake in the wonderful sport of fishing!

Spring can be one of the best times of the year for catching fish. As the days get longer, the sun warms the water and draws the fish into the coves and shallow areas to feed and spawn. Unfortunately, spring always brings with it another predictable event, constant weather changes. One day can be a nice warm and pleasant day, and the next can turn quite a bit cooler with strong gusty winds, two completely different types of days. However, as the old saying goes, one can be a great day for the fisherman, and the other a great day for the fish.

Which type of day is more advantageous for the angler? That depends on who you are asking. Most fishermen will say a nice warm and pleasant day is the best day to be fishing, and without a doubt it certainly is. However if approached correctly a day of rough wind can be a great opportunity for “catching” fish.

When the wind starts blowing most fishermen will head for the protective cover of a hidden cove, go to another lake, or simply pack up their fishing gear and head home. Unfortunately that type of fisherman will be destined to be a fair weather angler. To consistently catch fish, a fisherman must be adept at fishing in all types of weather conditions including wind. Successful fishing in the wind takes a properly prepared angler who has a positive and determined attitude, and the right fishing equipment. Before heading out to fish on a windy day, make sure your fishing pole and lures are prepared properly. Make sure your boat is loaded correctly as it can sway and capsize from an overpowering wave if loaded improperly. As always, be sure to have and wear your life jacket when fishing in the wind or other inclement weather.

Be sure to check all of your marine batteries to be certain they are fully charged. If you have a spare battery, use your marine battery charger and juice it up so it can be taken along with you. You're going to need all the power you can muster to hold your boat steady on your fishing spot with the rough wind. An anchor will also help you to stay in one place so if you have one be sure to use it. Besides being a good safety reason, you can drop out your anchor to help hold you in position if you're having trouble holding onto your fishing spot with your trolling motor. Another good tool for fishing in the wind is a drift sock or trolling bag. Not too many inland water anglers use them, but they can be a great tool in windy conditions once you get the hang of how they are used.

Check your tackle. Make sure your reels are fully spooled. Since partially filled spool will be harder to cast, cause frequent backlashes, and inhibit you from casting the proper distance. It's also a good idea to tighten your spool adjustment slightly more than normal. It might cut down your casting distance, but will minimize backlashes and tangles.

Good baits to use when fishing in the wind are larger crankbaits and spinnerbaits, and heavier jigs and worm weights. Another good tip is to downsize the line diameter. If you usually use a 14-pound test fishing line, drop down to 12. You may get a little more line stretch, but the reduced drag from the wind and moving water will more than make up for it, a braided fishing line is even better because they typically have a smaller diameter than monofilament without as much stretch.
The biggest advantage to fishing in the wind is the fish’s extremely predictable behavior in windy weather. They most often congregate around windblown points and banks, ambushing baitfish as they swim by or are carried into the shallow water against the bank. The wind also works crayfish and other forage out of rocks and ledges making them easier prey for feeding fish.

Wind: Friend or foe? You be the judge. But if you learn to use it to your advantage, you'll have more days to fish and do more catching instead of sitting at home. After all, "they call it fishing, but the goal is catching"!

Do you have any fishing tips and techniques for fishing in the wind that you would like to share with other anglers? Please leave a comment below on the outdoor news section and find all your fishing sporting goods at PoorFish Outdoors.

Surf Fishing Basics

2012-05-14T09:18:00Z

Next to the image of a young boy holding his first fish with a straw hat on or the iconic vision of a marlin leaping out of the water, one of the most often viewed images of fishing is surf fishing. Let me paint the picture for you. The sun is beaming over head, the water is breaking on the jetty and lapping against rocks, the gulls and seabirds are suspended in the air, and a lone angler with toes in the sand waiting for the long surf fishing rod to bend with the strike of a fish; pretty picturesque if you ask me. Some might think that becoming the angler in that image is harder than it really is, but for the coastal angler it is probably a daily occurrence. So the question then becomes ‘how do I tackle surf fishing to have the same experience?’

First and foremost, you need to pick the spot where you are going to post your surf fishing rod and time it correctly. It’s always helpful if you can read the surf, but it is not necessary. Seek out a favorite fishing area of the locals and carefully educate yourself on the line of breakers which is where the waves turn white. Typically breakers are formed by two consecutive sandbars, but there are times when a deeper third one will be a part of the equation. Eye the waves and water movement very closely for the area where water flows back out to see. This area, called the rip current, carries food out to the fish so logically that is where you are going to drop your bait.

When it comes to the tides, your first course of action would be to ask the locals when the ideal tide for surf fishing occurs. 99% of the time they will tell you not to fish when the tide is extremely low. Incoming tides are the optimal time to go surf fishing which most often occurs in the morning when there is low light and the game fish can creep closer to shore. In addition, all the families with kids who crowd the beach during prime sun hours aren’t there to spook your target.

Tackle for Surf Fishing

Let’s go back to that image we conjured up just moments ago, specifically the long surf rod. Most of the time, seasoned surf anglers will opt for fishing rods that are in the 12 to 15 foot range with oversized line guides and the ability to cast upwards of 100 yards. Typically these rods are outfitted with an oversized spinning reel that is saltwater rated for corrosion resistance and spooled with line between 20- and 20- and 25-pound test fishing line . Fishing line of this diameter is strong enough to withstand a battle with a decent sized game fish. If you have never been surf fishing before, it would be advisable to start off with a smaller surf rod, somewhere in the 7 foot range for closer casting and control.

If you are going to go gung-ho with your surf fishing experience and opt for the 12+ foot rod, be sure you outfit yourself with a sand spike. Sand spkes are PVC pipes or something similar that are cut to be 3 or 4 feet long and about 2-1/4 inches in diameter. You will want to have a sand spike that is sharpened on one end so that it can be driven in the sand to securely hold your surf fishing rod. Once you have the key elements of your fishing gear set up picked out and mounted, set your saltwater spinning reel’s drag light if you are using j-hooks. It’s important to stay by your rod and reel when using j-hooks since hook setting is required, where as with circle hooks, the fish does all the hard work itself. There should be several pounds of pressure on the drag with the circle hooks so that the rod bends correctly and holds the fish.

Other Gear

Obviously, your tackle box needs to be stocked with the right weights, baits, and lures for surf fishing in order to be successful on the beach. Let’s start with a look at weights. There are specific sinkers that are made for surf fishing, one of which is the Pyramid sinker that is up to six ounce. The idea behind these weights is their ability to stick in the sand so your line isn’t floating into other anglers’ line. Spider weights are another good option since they have legs that will essentially do the same thing as the Pyramid weight and stick in the sand.

Surf fishing bait is not something that you can really purchase ahead of time since most of the time you need to have a local fish to be successful. Depending on what species of fish you are targeting, a big slab of mullet might be your best option. Mullet is great live bait for redfish and sharks. Bonito has also proven itself to be quite useful when vying for a large game fish. If the smaller fish are what you are after, and many times that is what you will finder closer to shore, small bait fish are the best option. You can use cut bait, shrimp, or squid and still yield a decent size fish. Pompano is the exception to this rule. It will be necessary to round up your bait by digging for mole crabs in the wet beach sand if you are going to cast for this species. Regardless of which species you are targeting or what bait you are using, it is absolutely necessary to keep the bait as fresh as possible by storing it away in a bait bucket or ice chest.

Synthetic or artificial baits are something to always have around, but you don’t need them in great quantities when surf fishing. I keep topwater plugs in my tackle box for days with calm weather as well as spoons since they are great on feeding fish. Always have a mullet-imitation lure for the mullet runs headed to Florida since schools of mullet will attract most predatory fish.

Outside of these tackle box must haves, I always keep a small fillet knife close at hand and a pair of needlenose pliers for hook removal.

What was your experience surf fishing? Do you have any tips for the novice saltwater angler? Share with others by leaving a comment below on the outdoor news section and find all your fishing sporting goods at PoorFish Outdoors.

Carolina Rig vs. Texas Rig

2012-05-11T11:00:00Z

If it's summer on a Midwest lake you can count on two things, hot weather and deep fish. If the fish are deep, either a Texas rig or a Carolina Rig (C-rig) are often your best weapons. Both of these rigs will catch fish, but how you decide which set up to choose and how you should rig it is based on the conditions you're facing. This article will focus on a few generic rules of thumb to help you answer the when, where, and why in the debate of the Carolina rig versus the Texas rig.

Carolina rigs, especially when coupled with a heavy sinker (3/4 to 1 ounce), work best in a variety of situations. First, a heavy sinker allows you to make long casts and quickly drag the bait across a wide area. Carolina rigs also allow you to maintain contact with the bottom the whole time to find fish fast. When I use Berkley Vanish 20lb Fluorocarbon line, the heavy sinker and fluorocarbon line clearly transmits changes in bottom composition or pieces of isolated cover. I work the bait quickly until I find cover such as rocks, weeds, or wood then slowly work my bait through this fish-holding cover. The ability to cover a lot of water and find small areas of cover makes the Carolina rig a great search bait as well as a great tool to catch fish once they're found.

In contrast, Texas rigs typically work best when fishing heavy cover, specific targets, and steep drops. In heavy cover, a Carolina rig will often hang up more on obstacles and will not penetrate small holes in grass clumps or brush piles as well as a Texas rig. When fish are located in very specific pieces of cover or structure, a Texas rig will provide great action while shaking it in place (similar to the way you shake a worm on a shaky head jig). This subtle quivering action while leaving the bait in place often triggers inactive fish to strike. Finally, when fishing very steep banks, pond dams, or ledges a Texas rig can be slowly crawled down the slope while a Carolina rig will often too quickly pull your bait all the way to the bottom of the break. In these cases, the Texas rig wins the battle of the Carolina rig vs. Texas rig.

Another factor to consider is the size of your weights. Tungsten weights are harder and smaller, which allows them to transmit more feeling and affords you the opportunity to work the lures into tighter areas of cover. Heavy weights are often a good choice for summer fishing since the fast fall triggers fish to strike. They also let the lure reach the bottom quicker and gives you superior sensitivity. While the slow fall of a small weight will sometimes get finicky fish to bite, I often start with a heavy weight and go smaller if I must instead of the other way around.

In addition to the size of weight, the soft plastic lure you use on your rig will affect the drop speed and performance of your set up. Bulky baits with big tails or appendages will slow the fall of your rig and work best when paired with bigger weights and moved aggressively. Lures like creature baits, lizards, and big ribbon-tail worms like the Berkley Powerbait Power Worm 10" move a lot of water and trigger big fish that are actively feeding. You must hop and swim these baits on a Carolina rig or Texas rig to get their full action. Conversely, when the bite is tougher and you need to coax those big girls into biting, more streamlined soft plastics are in order. In this case, I'll rig up with straight tailed worm, plastic craws, or French fry baits. For an especially tantalizing slow fall, try a Strike King Rage Tail Shad on the business end of your Carolina rig, fish holding deep love them just as much as they did when they were up shallow in the spring.

Of course, there are no absolutes in fishing. However, in choosing the Carolina rig vs. Texas rig, I hope these basic rules of thumb will help make your decision on what to rig up a little easier on your next trip. Here's to hoping you catch the lunker of your dreams.

Do you have any fishing tips and techniques that you would like to share with other anglers? Please leave a comment below on the outdoor news section and find all your fishing sporting goods at PoorFish Outdoors.

Tips for Beginner Fishing

2012-05-10T09:29:00Z

A lot of times, folks who aren’t as familiar with fishing might think that it is just a sport for the experienced, but fishing can be enjoyed by people of all ages and skill levels. Remember, the pros weren’t always at the top of their game, they all started out at some point. Fishing beginners don’t need to spend a heap of money and they do not need to have their tackle boxes filled to the brim. An angler can get by with just the bare essentials along with a few tips, and still have a successful day on the water. Here are 10 tips I give most anglers who are just beginning to get their feet wet in the sport of fishing.

1. You definitely cannot go fishing without the proper set up. Fishing rods and reels come in a variety of shapes and sizes, some with their own specific application or target species. Beginner fishing does not require the most expensive or technical fishing equipment to make it a great day with a bountiful catch. Most fishing beginners will do just fine with a quality spinning rod and spincast reel. If you don’t want to look for the items individually, you can always opt for a rod reel combo, where the guess work is done for you. There is no reason for a basic outfit to cost more than $35 and you can find a decent setup for less. I recommend the Daiwa D-Turbo spincast rod reel combo. Not only are they affordable but they come pre-spooled and the rod is made from heavy duty fiberglass blanks. This will be a sturdy rod equipped with a reel that will allow fishing beginners to become comfortable with the basics without fussing with the reel.

2. While most of the newer fishing reels come pre-spooled with fishing line, there are some that do not. When using a spincasting reel, it is recommended to use light fishing line, typically 4 to 8 pound test. Now, it is important to note that there is a variety of fishing lines available and not all are cut out for spincast reels. I would advise any fishing beginner to avoid using braided fishing line. It tends to be more pliable and stretches more than mono fishing line so there is a greater risk of the line snapping under pressure. The moral of the story is use light pound-test mono fishing line.

3. Just as important to the rod and reel outfit, the hook you use is what keeps the fish on the line. Beginner fishing requires knowledge of how fishing hooks are characterized. The hook size shrinks as the classification numbers get larger. Small hooks, sizes 10-14, are typically used when fishing for crappie, perch, and sunfish just to name a few. The larger hooks, such as size 6 or 8, are used when you go fishing for bass, walleye, and catfish.

4. While hook sizes are inverted in naming properties, the connection between fishing lure size and hook are pretty straight forward. Always match the hook and bait to the size of fish you are targeting. But be sure that your tackle goes farther than that. Any weights or bobbers you attach to your fishing line should also match the size of fish, hook, and bait you are using.

5. Take it from someone who has first hand experience, there is nothing worse than running a fish and losing it mid-fight because the line wasn’t knotted correctly. It might seem like a trivial part of your fishing experience, but far too many times, fishing beginners will lose their catch due to a poorly tied knot. The best knot for a lot of the fish that beginner anglers target is an improved clinch knot. To tie the knot, insert the end of the fishing line through the eye of the hook. Then make five turns around the line and pass the end between the eye and the first coil of your 5 turns. Thread the end of the line back through the loop and pull tightly. Do not pull the knot tight yet. Wet the line first in order to reduce the amount of friction and then you can finish the knot.

6. Bobbers have been mentioned before in this article and they can come in handy for beginner fishing. Bobbers are used for suspending bait off the river or lake bottom when fishing for crappie or sunfish, just to name a few. For bottom fishing rigs, fishing beginners should add sinkers instead. Catfish and perch are often times the prime target species for bottom fishing rigs.

7. Many places where you can go weekend fishing are catch and release, other times the fish might not be the right size to keep for your dinner. When releasing a fish, always wet your hands before gripping the fish. You should always be gentle when you are trying to remove the hook from the fish’s mouth and set it free. There will be times when the hook will be ingested by the fish. In this situation don’t be alarmed; the hook will dissolve in the fish’s stomach. Cut the line as close to the mouth as possible and promptly return your catch to the water. Fishing beginners need to know the importance of catch and release fishing. If you don’t put the small fish back, you can’t catch the big ones when you gain more experience

8. There are times when it is necessary to net a fish although it is not ideal. In the event you can’t reach the fish, you need to use a fishing net. Sounds simple enough, right? It is, just be sure that you always net your catch head first. This is a common mistake done by fishing beginners. While it is not the end of the world if you net them tail first, but the head first option will significantly decrease your chance of having the fish run out of your net. In addition, a tail first fish will often times get snagged on your net garnering an unintentional release.

9. It is important for fishing beginners to check their line every once in a while to make sure there are no kinks, knots, or frays. Pull your fishing line out of the water and run the 2-feet closest to the hook between your thumb and forefinger to feel for any abnormalities in the line. In the event there is a problem with your line, snip it just above the problem location and re-tie the improved cinch knot where the clean line begins.

10. The last tip for fishing beginners is one that many anglers don’t really think about too often, but is incredibly integral to fishing success. Always keep your hooks sharp, a dull one catches nothing.

What other tips do you have for fishing beginners? Share with new anglers by leaving a comment below on the outdoor news section and find all your fishing sporting goods at PoorFish Outdoors.

Catching Bass in the “Mid-Layer”

2012-05-09T11:00:00Z

We are heading into the time of year when fish are in transition. Some will be spawning, some may have already spawned, and some may just now be beginning the pre-spawn stage. It can be feast or famine throughout the spring fishing season and into summer for those of us trying to catch bass.

Shallow fish that are working on beds and spawning can be easy to catch at times, but they can also be finicky and ignore any lure you throw at them. The reason behind the picky eating is the frequency and variety of bait tossed their way. During the spring months, I have found that most of the fish holding in shallow water have been pressured by an influx of anglers.

In tracking studies, they found a definite layer of fish in shallow water and another in deep water, but the most surprising group of fish was found in the mid-layer. Anglers that aim for mid-layer fish are few and far between and those that know the secrets of mid-layer fishing are even fewer. Fish that live in a suspended mode will live in 10 feet of water, hovering over the deeper water. To bass, the mid layer is a much safer place than living along the shoreline and they will receive less fishing pressure in this zone. These fish will have a daily routine of traveling to the shallows to feed, then moving back out to the zone they have been suspending in to rest. This particular group of bass is made up of generally larger individuals than those you might catch in shallow or even deeper water. I believe there are more trophy fish living in this manner than living in shallow water year round. Fishing deeper water, somewhere around 10 feet, can offer you some of the most productive fishing you'll experience.

Many fishermen don't like vying for suspended fish because they, like all other bass, can be difficult to catch at times. However these fish will feed from about 9:00 am until 10:00 or so every morning, they will be actively searching for food and if you are in the right place at the right time, you can catch these fish in great abundance. Upon finishing their spawn many of the larger female bass will retreat to these mid-layer suspending zones. They will hold these positions for as long as 30 to 60 days. Often they will drift out to the depth at which the lake stratifies and then remain at that level until the heat of summer passes. It is during this time that typically deep water residents will drop back even deeper than their normal locations. Though holding in deeper than normal water, these fish will also be feeding actively. Fishermen can catch really nice bass in very deep water during the warmer summer months, but it is the mid-layer bass that rarely get attention leaving them hungry. All too often, fishermen will pass over an area, graph suspended fish, and move on thinking they cannot catch these fish. That is not always the case.

To catch this mid-layer bass you must use baits that will be productive for the depth at which the fish are holding. The best ones will be those that suspend on their own or those that you have altered to suspend. Fishing these baits in a manner that puts them in the area where the bass are, then holding it there for as long as possible will put fish in the boat for you. There are a number of suspending crankbaits available, but there are also products you can add to your crankbaits and other lures to help them suspend. Great examples of a lure add-on for mid-layer bass fishing are very light weights that stick onto the lure, or you can create the same basic function by simply adding a small pinch-weight to your line just above the lure.

Remember that bass live by established patterns. Each day they travel the areas they traveled the day before. They feed in the same places that they have come to know there will be prey swimming. Day in and day out, these fish will do what has worked for them in the past. The only exceptions will be changes in habit due to extreme weather changes. These fish will simply become semi-active, not totally inactive, as long as there hasn't been a massive weather front with high pressure. Should there be high pressure and a strong front, you aren't likely to find these fish moving or actively feeding until it has passed.

Don't be afraid to fish for suspended bass. Try a variety of lures, rod and reel combos, fishing lines, retrieval methods, and depths until you get a hit. In general, you must put the bait in front of the fish and maneuver it to do something that entices that fish. It is only the smaller, younger, and usually hungrier bass that will chase lures from long distances away.

Getting Ready to go Bass Fishing

2012-05-08T11:00:00Z

Mild and slow bass fishing; that's what you will face in your tournament fishing during the early months of year. On the local and state level, most of you just started the competitive fishing season. More likely than not, the only the lakes where tournaments will be held in spring will be in the Deep South, Midwest, or on a power plant lake. If you fish a hot-water lake, you won’t have to pay as much attention to the weather as you would on a natural lake.

The deep south is haven for early spring season spawning, so the likelihood of finding bass that are in the peak of spawning is quite good. On most hot-water lakes, anglers will find that one end will be warmer than the other. There could very well be two totally different patterns, so the best method or pattern is what you need to look for. The best pattern will work with your strong points. For example, if you're forte is fishing spinnerbaits in shallow water, then you should look for water conducive to that type of fishing. If it's crankbaits, topwater, or worm fishing you must seek out water that will allow you to fish in these ways.

Another factor that you must take into consideration is that on hot-water lakes you will likely face quite a crowd. Everybody else will be fishing the warmer lakes right now and because power plant lakes are limited, the problem of crowding is magnified greatly. In this situation, I tend to look for fish holding in deeper water. Most anglers will be fishing shallow and therefore the usually active bass in shallow water will be highly pressured. No matter how hot the water, I've always been able to find active fish in deep water.

When it comes to cold-water lakes, most of the bass hunker down in deeper water. You have to realize that when fishing during April in the Midwest on cold-water lakes, the fishing is going to be slow and tough even when the weather has been favorable. Keep in mind that bass will be cold and sluggish, so you must avoid stained or muddy water conditions at all costs. To increase your odds of catching fish, seek out the clearest water that you can find. Look for deep creek channels, drop-offs, and points. The use of a graph is critical during winter and early spring. A good flasher will work, but a quality graph (Pinpoint is the best) will take out the guesswork of what is below you.

First and foremost, I look for schooled up shad since the bass won't be far from their food source. The shad will relate to creek channels, drop-offs, and points so it goes without saying that this is why bass will be in those areas. Before a tournament, I always keep track of the trending weather for at least three or four days. Even a rise of two or three degrees in water temperature can change the activity level of the fish. By the same token, a drop in water temperature can really make for a tough bite as it will shock the fish.

Typical cold-water lures will be a jig-and-pig, jigging spoons, slow-rolled spinnerbaits, or even a deep-diving crankbait. A couple of small things that you can do to increase your success rate are to use a 3/4 ounce spinnerbait and exchange the blades for ones that are a couple sizes smaller. On crankbaits I'll use one that has a wide wobble and with fishing line heavier than 12-pound test. Another thing you can do this month to help your tournament fishing is to being preparations for the coming season. If you wait until May to put your boat in the service department you might have to wait two to six weeks to get it back. Now is the time to do routine maintenance. By maintaining your fishing gear and boat, you can prevent problems from popping up during a tournament.

Take some time to do your “homework”. Start researching the lakes where your upcoming events are being held, study maps of the lakes, and read articles. Even if you can only find older information on your tournament lakes, it is still better than nothing. I also like to study tournament results from the last few years on the lakes where I have events, then I know what to expect in size of fish that I need to locate to place in the tournament. Another thing I like to use this time for is to organize my maps, secure line and other items, repair reels, and change hooks on baits. These are all things that it are better to do now, rather than when the season begins. So while the fishing is slow, get ready for the exciting upcoming fishing season.

Do you have any bass fishing tips or recommendations that you would like to share with other anglers? Please leave a comment below on the outdoor news section and find all your fishing sporting goods at PoorFish Outdoors.

Catching Spring Lunkers

2012-05-07T11:00:00Z

With the arrival of spring, anglers will find that most big bass have migrated to shallower waters. The time to catch Mrs. Big is now here! There will be some days you can let down your trolling motor at the boat ramp, start fishing with just about anything you select from your tackle box, and catch some wall-hangers. You can fish the same area the very next day and not even get a nibble. Those of you who have experienced situations like this can attest to its validity. Areas will be hot one day and then completely shut off the next leaving you to wonder where the heck the bass went. They are still there, but they have other things on their mind; either they started their spawning ritual in the area you are fishing, or a spring cold front pushed them back to deeper water.

To consistently catch fish in the spring you must be mobile and ready to move at a moment’s notice. Be ready to relocate fishing areas daily, and be prepared to cover a lot of water. When you connect with a big 'un, stay in the area and fish it thoroughly. Big bass are normally loners, however, there will sometimes be numbers of big bass in prime staging areas and spawning locations.

In early spring, start your day fishing the upper (shallow) end of the lake, and as the month proceeds, work toward the dam or deeper end. Prime locations that hold lunkers will have deep water near shallow, and an abundance of structure, such as wood or grass with contour lines running parallel to shallow water. Also, look for areas that are protected from prevailing winds. Most big bass will set up their core area in eight to fifteen feet of water near their selected spawning area, moving to shallow edges or contour breaks to spawn.

Sometimes before spawning, big females will cruise shallow water to feed and look for males on nests to select the right partner, but they will not stray far from deep water. Most big bass will select a nest site on the edge of break lines in four to six feet of water near cover, such as wood and grass. Some big females will spawn in treetops found in the middle of the lake, but this is not common. Water must be shallow enough for sunlight to penetrate the nesting area. In areas that generally stay off-colored or muddy, big bass will spawn in very shallow water (one to three feet). In clear water, larger females will spawn in four to eight feet of water. When big female bass move to their nesting site to spawn, feeding is not on their mind so they are very hard to catch once on the nest. The best time to catch a big female is before they make their move to spawn and after the spawn.

Concentrate your fishing time in staging areas with eight to 15 feet of water on contour lines near spawning areas. When big females move up to spawn, relocate your fishing to an area where they have not moved onto their nests. Sight fishing for nesting bass can be a lot of fun, but if you are after a trophy, stay on the break lines to greatly increase your odds of landing a lunker.

During the spring months, bass will bite a large variety of small and large lures. When covering a lot of water, the Strike King Mini King Spinnerbait is hard to beat. With a large selection of easily changeable skirts on the frame that always seems to snap back to its original form, they catch big fish and last a long time. When you plan to fish an area slowly and thoroughly, jigs with big plastic trailers of pork chunks or craws are the absolute best choice. Some large bass are also caught during spring on soft jerkbaits. There are plenty of soft jerkbaits on the market for you to choose from, but the Berkley Hollow Belly Swimbait is my personal favorite. Over the years I have had a lot of luck with the Hollow Belly Swimbait. It’s yielded a number of big bass for my friends and me, and I expect more of the same this spring.

When you catch your trophy bass or any bass for that matter, please practice a safe catch and release. Nowadays replica mounts are better than skin mounts, they will definitely last longer. All you need for a replica is your fish’s weight and length. The girth measurement is not necessary as the taxidermist will determine the girth by the length and weight of the fish. Lastly, a photo of your trophy will help the taxidermist replicate the exact color and special markings.

Do you have any tips on fishing for lunkers that you would like to share with other anglers? Please leave a comment below on the outdoor news section and find all your fishing sporting goods at PoorFish Outdoors.

Components of your Fishing Reel

2012-05-04T11:00:00Z

Now days, anglers are interested in cleaning and maintaining their own fishing reels, changing out bearings, jazzing up the gears, and constantly pushing their reels to the edge of design. I hope you will find the following information interesting and beneficial to you in your quest to have and maintain the perfect fishing reel.

Anti-Reverse

This part stops the handle from turning backwards. It can be either one of two types. The older reels have an anti-reverse that is mounted on a frame post and it has 2 claws and must be straddled by the drive shaft ratchet. The other type is called an Instant Anti-reverse and it is mounted in the right hand side plate.

Bearing clip removal

Bearing clips are used to hold the bearings in place and are usually octagon in shape. Removing a clip is fairly simple. Put your forefinger over the bearing clip, use a pair of tweezers and grab hold of the piece, slide the tweezer ends toward the end of the clip and pull it in to remove the clip. All the while, you must keep your fore finger over the clip to make sure not to lose it. Be careful, they sometimes take on a life of their own.

Bearing clip installation

The same principle applies as discussed in the clip removal. Put your forefinger over the bearing cavity, using tweezers, install the back of the bearing clip first along with one side and then slide the tweezers up towards the free end of clip then pull in and push down. It's a done deal!

Bearing Removal

Unfold a standard size paper clip, bend one end at a right angle. Now, you have a homemade bearing puller. Insert the right angle end of the paperclip inside the bearing and lift out. A paper clip makes an outstanding tool for working on fishing reels.

Bearing Installation

Position the bearing over the bearing cavity. Using your forefinger, apply even pressure to seat the bearing. Never hit or use a heavy force to seat the bearing. The disctance between the outside of the bearing and the inside of the bearing cavity is extremely close.

Bearing Maintenance

Cleanliness and care of your reels bearings is extremely important. Clean your fishing reel bearings in a bottle cap with lighter fluid or acetone. Swish the bearings around until they are clean. Air dry on a towel and spin on the end of a screwdriver to ensure they are spinning freely. Apply one drop of oil per bearing.

Chemicals

It is not a good idea to use chemicals on fishing reels and for good reason because damage caused by the use of harsh chemicals, such as gasoline, on plastic parts in reels may not show up until later, but chemicals can slowly corrode parts. The use of a bio-degradable cleaner is highly recommended to clean reels and parts as it is safe for both the environment and your reel.

Copper Insulators

Copper Insulators are located in the left side plate of reel and inside the Cast Control Cap, they may be round or rectangular in shape. From time to time, they will get dented due to the tightening of the Cast Control Cap which causes the spool shaft ends to indent the insulator. Check them from time to time and turn them over so the smooth side will be in contact with spool shaft ends.

Curved washers

They are actually called Drag Spring Washers. These two washers should always be mounted with one curved up and one curved down. This is necessary for compression when the star drag, found under the reel’s handle, is tightened down.

E Clips

As the name implies, E clips are shaped just like the letter. Remove by positioning your forefinger over them. Insert the tip of open tweezers into back of the E; pull out just a tad or until you are able to grab hold of the clip, and completely to remove it. Be sure to hold your finger over the clip until you got a good bite on it with tweezers.

Grease

The application of grease is extremely important. Grease should be applied at the base of the gear teeth so when the teeth become laced together, the grease will lubricate as it is intended. Wiping the outside of gears with grease will cause it to splatter inside of the reel and defeat the purpose of greasing the gear. Be advised that using vasoline is frowned upon. Grease with a good temperature rating is preferred.

Line Guide

The line guide can be found at the front of a fishing reel and can be identified thanks to an eyelet where the line is threaded from. The line guide travels back and forth on the worm gear. It holds the line guide pawl.

Line Guide Pawl

This small piece is mounted in the cavity on the line guide and held in place by a cap. The pawl travels between the flattened teeth of the worm gear. If the line guide pawl is hanging up or stopping on one side of the reel, remove and inspect it. Examine the sides looking for scratches and gorges. The tips will be worn and have somewhat blunt tips. The worm gear may also have burrs or scratches on the flattened teeth. Generally, it is a good idea to replace both parts of the fishing reel at the same time.

Line Slipping

If you have braided line on the spool and your drag will not tighten down or line is slipping on the spool, the solution to this problem is simple. You must spool at least 10-15 yards of monofilament line next to spool arbor and then tie the braided line to the monofilament.

Oil

Oil is available in three viscosities. The Tournament viscosity is very thin and used mostly by anglers in Casting Contests, and must be applied quite frequently. Next, is the Yellow and is of medium viscosity which is used by most of us anglers. It doesn't have to be applied as often, probably twice a season, depending on how often the reel is used. The last oil is the Red and is the thickest and used by anglers wanting to slow down their reel. Rocket Fuel possesses slightly adhesive qualities at the start of the cast, yet is free running at end of cast. It will not evaporate, so that the reel bearings will not film over, or have the oil in them turn to sludge. The oil will not mix with water and has a wide temperature range. It is not affected by any normal temperature differences and due to its slightly adhesive qualities; it will not easily be thrown off.

Pinion

As the handle is turned in the retrieve mode, the pinion sets down on the spool shaft. If you start the retrieve before landing the lure, the pinion doesn't get a chance to seat on the spool shaft. After a period of time, there will be a clicking noise and that is the pinion trying to seat on the spool shaft. The pinion stops the spool rotation. If the pinion is not seated, the fish will be hauling off and you probably can't turn or stop the get-away.

Reel cleaning

Cleaning a reel isn't as difficult or scary as one might think. Use a bio-degradable cleaner and an old cake pan, even your wife's new one will be fine. Lay out strips of tape (masking tape will do) on table and write numbers on tape every 2 inches or so. As you remove a part, lay it by the number. For instance, the first thing removed should be the nut cap screw on the handle nut cap. Lay the screw on number one, lay the nut cap on number 2, and lay the handle nut on 3. Continue until all parts are removed. To re-install parts, start with the highest number and work backwards until you reach the nut cap screw lying on number one. If you do not have a schematic available, be sure to note the orientation of each reel part so that you avoid making a mistake when reassembling your fishing reel. I tell anglers to orient the reel the same way each time it is picked up. Doing this allows you to install parts correctly and will eliminate confusion of part installation.

Smoooooth Drag Washers

These drag washers are comprised of a high-density, fiber material and silicone. The fibers draw off heat rapidly, and the silicone provides lubrication to materials that reach very high temperatures. These special drag washers require no grease.

Do you have any special fishing reel maintenance techniques or tricks that you would like to share with other anglers? Please leave a comment below on the outdoor news section and find all your fishing sporting goods at PoorFish Outdoors.

Fishing Deep Water Structures

2012-05-03T11:00:00Z

Fishing deep water structures is still probably the most misunderstood type of fishing. We've all been brought up with the notions of casting your fishing line into visible cover. This makes non-visual targets difficult to fish for the average angler. To me, water that is less than 10 feet dees is considered shallow, so for the purpose of this article, 10+ feet is deep. The deepest I personally like to explore, under most conditions, is around 50 to 60 feet; although I've caught bass as deep as 80 feet (Lake George).

Remember the difference between structure and cover. Cover is some physical object separate from the actual bottom contour and is often mistaken for structure. Structure is the actual bottom contour (breaks, drops, humps, etc.) Think of structure as the highways and roads bass use to travel and migrate from one place to another. Think of the cover as rest stops or restaurants between these highways.

The presence of cover on some form of structure is the magic mix or what most anglers call sweet spots. Knowing that structure provides the highways for bass migration is extremely important in understanding these sweet spots. The equation to finding good deep water structure is as follows: Homework + On The Water Fine Tuning = Sweet Spots

Homework

Most of the shortcuts to finding deep-water structures occur long before you get to body of water. Looking back, I would venture to say, 75 percent of the very successful deep water structure areas I have found over the years have been when I was sitting at home looking at maps. Contour maps provide the information needed to narrow your search. In keeping with the highway analogy, the contour map is your road atlas. By going back to one of the fishing commandments, seasonal pattern and water type, we can literally cut our search in half. Seasonal patterns are an integral part of in figuring out what types of deep water structures the bass will be using.

In a perfect world, we can base the entire life cycle of a bass off of knowing two areas: their spawning areas (flats) and their wintering areas (deep water vertical break areas). The structure breaks that connect these two areas are their migration highways. All you need to do is figure out where they are along the migration road.

Here is a general seasonal outline: The bass winter in the deepest water/vertical break areas available (main lake). In the early spring (pre-spawn), the bass begin their movements up toward spawning flats and creeks. They use main creek channels or the main lake drop as their route. They stop at main points and humps first, then secondary points on their way to the spawning grounds from the deep water. When the spawning ritual is complete, bass head back out the same way, stopping at secondary points then main points and humps. Summer fish tend to scatter throughout the system, but a majority can be found along the main deep water channel areas. In the fall, they will again move shallow using the same points and humps they did before in order to feed up for the winter. Bass are aggressively seeking bait fish at this time of the year.

In that entire seasonal plan we just discussed, the bass have used structure, main channels, secondary creek channels, ledges, or breaks. The key areas are anywhere these channels intersect with something like a point, hump, land mass, or anywhere they make a dramatic turn or bend. These are the type of areas I generally seek out. I will use different color pens to circle potential areas on the map. For example, I will circle deep wintering areas in blue pen. I will circle main points in black. And I will circle secondary points in red. I will then shade in spawning areas with a green pen. I also like to use multiple map sources and cross reference them. Remember, no two maps are exactly the same.

On The Water Fine Tuning

After all your homework has been completed it's time to fine tune the fishing spots. When I arrive to the lake and get into the area I have circled, I will fast idle the area in a zig-zag pattern. I am keeping a constant eye on my fishfinders and look for any irregularity; signs of activity such as cover on the bottom (brush piles, weeds) or pods of bait will appear as black clouds. I will keep zigzagging up and down the potential area until I find something that I like. When settling on a fishing spot, I will throw a marker buoy on the area and continue to circle it in order to establish my boundaries. If I see something else or find a definite end to something, I drop a second buoy.

Now finally we get to cast our fishing rods. Using a search type of bait such as a crankbait, carolina rig, or heavy jig, I begin to fan cast the entire area. I am trying to establish contact with the bottom, with cover, or near bait. The transmission that the search baits give me is critical to the search. I can now find that lone brush pile, section of rock, or that one area where the channel bends. While locating these structures I am keeping a close eye on my depthfinder, points of land, and my marker buoys.

When I do catch a fish, hopefully multiple fish, I hit the quick button on my GPS unit and I will immediately jot down some notes on my map such as GPS number, water depth, temperature, clarity, wind, or any other useful information. Before leaving for the day, I take visual notes of land points if it is possible and try to triangulate points to help further find the sweet spots upon my return.

Deep Structure Basics

There are also general guidelines for fishing deep water structures which you should follow. During periods of active feeding, such as low light, rain, and wind, the bass generally move to shallower water and hold looser to cover. During periods of high pressure or under adverse conditions, the bass tend to be a little deeper and tighter to cover. Structure with shell and rock type cover on it is better in the spring and late fall. Structure with vegetation type cover and current structure areas are better in the summer. Structure areas with more vertical breaks are better during the winter periods. Generally the same sweet spots tend to produce over and over each year and are great places to cast your lures next year.

A thin echo bottom line on your depthfinder represents a hard bottom. A thick echo represents a softer type bottom. Turning the gain all the way up on your depthfinder will enable you to find hard bottom/soft bottom areas and the thermocline (a steep temperature gradient in a body of water such as a lake, marked by a layer above and below which the water is at different temperatures).
As a parting gift, I will tell you from experience that the drop shot technique is dynamite on deep structures especially on clear, heavily pressured places.

Do you have any superb locations or other suggestions you would like to share with other anglers? Please leave a comment below on the outdoor news section and find all your fishing sporting goods at PoorFish Outdoors.

The Six “Must Have” Bass Lures

2012-05-02T11:00:00Z

Okay, bass anglers, it’s time to admit it. You have a tackle box full of lures, yet some of these baits you fish with every time you go to the pond, while others just sit in the tackle box collecting dust. What if you could only take six lures down to the pond? Which six lures would you pick? A lure is simply a tool anglers use to locate and catch fish. Whether you are fishing in a large reservoir, river, or pond, fish are going to be located somewhere in the water column depending on season and availability of structure and cover. The tools or lures you select should target either the top, middle, or bottom range of the water column. Here are six "must-have" lures for bass fishing: Topwater popper, minnow bait, spinnerbait, medium running crankbait, jig, and a 6-inch finesse worm. These baits cover the top of the water column all the way to the bottom. Depending on the season, one of these lures will catch fish on any given day.

Everyone loves to catch fish on topwater lures, so it only makes sense that one of the six lures is a topwater popper. A popper is a special lure because of the cupped lip and because it floats and splits water every time an angler pulls on the lure. Poppers can resemble a frog, shad, bluegill, or a bigger fish chasing a small baitfish. These lures come in color patterns that can match any forage in the lake. One of my personal favorites when it comes to poppers is the Storm Rattlin’ Chug Bug. Poppers are extremely effective when catching fish around standing timber, boat docks, lay downs, boulders, the edge of aquatic vegetation, or even in open water when fish are schooling.

One of the biggest surprises in the top six "must-have" bass lures may be the minnow bait. Often overlooked, these baits excel in shallow water situations and catch surprisingly large bass. The shape and action of these lures closely represent a minnow or shad found in near every lake. Minnow-shaped lures are available in four different models: floating, suspending, slow sinking, and sinking. The majority of seasoned anglers fish with either the floating or suspending model, like the Rapala F11 Silver Floating Minnow. The suspending model is particularly effective in cold winter months, and early spring in the south when water temperatures are below 58 degrees. A floating model will catch fish from early spring, when fish move shallow, to late fall. Floating minnows are built of balsa wood or molded plastic. Both have their advantages; a floating minnow made from balsa wood has a pulsating, darting, lifelike action found only with balsa lures. The first floating minnow ever fashioned was from hand-carved wood. The majority of floating minnows do not have rattles or extra moving parts, this is important because sometimes fish seem to be wary of lures making "unnatural" sounds.

There are drawbacks to fishing with balsa wood lures, which is why lure companies started making molded plastic floating minnows lures. Molded plastic lures are durable and cost less to produce, making them more affordable. They are available in numerous sizes to match the forage fish in the lake you are fishing. Floating minnows can be fished from pre-spawn around spawning areas to post-spawn near migration routes where bass suspend to recuperate before moving to their summertime hangouts. It’s also possible to use the floating minnow lures on the flat in the fall where schools of baitfish gather before winter months.

The next two "must-have" lures can be used as search tools for locating fish on lakes that may be unfamiliar to you. Ask any angler and you will find that the spinnerbait is one of the easiest lures to use when fishing lake waters. Spinnerbaits can be buzzed back across the surface, slow rolled along the bottom, or just simply reeled in. One of the best techniques for catching fish on a spinnerbait is bumping it into cover then letting it drift. Spinnerbaits such as the Booyah Vibra-flex Spinnerbait, resemble forage typically found in lakes including bluegills, sunfish, small bass, or shad. Spinnerbaits can be used for any time of the year or water temperature by simply changing how fast you reel it in. The best place to fish a spinnerbait is in and around cover, but particularly next to isolated stick ups or aquatic vegetation. The majority of spinnerbaits come with single or tandem blades, and a variety of colored skirts to match the forage in the pond you are fishing. One magnificent idea is to add a trailer hook to their spinnerbaits to catch fish that short strike them. Spinnerbaits have different styles of blades from teardrop to willow-shaped and each is designed to shimmer and flash as it is retrieved through the water.

Of all six types of “must have” bass lures, the crankbait ranks as the number one in catching big bass. Crankbaits come in a number of models and color patterns to select, depending on the time of year and forage in the lake. Unlike a spinnerbait, the crankbait gets its action from the lure itself, rather than a blade. The angle of the lip and the shape of the body predetermine how a crankbait runs when retrieved. Some crankbaits are made to have a tight wiggle while others have a wide wobble. A tight wiggling crankbait produces fish after the water temperatures warm up or when fish are wary of unnatural-looking and sounding lures. A large percentage of the custom-built handmade balsa wood baits fit into this category. Wide wobbling crankbaits are preferred in colder water temperatures and normally have a crawfish color pattern. A number of these lures have a suspending model to keep them in the strike zone longer. Crankbaits such as the Bandit Series 200 Lure can catch fish from early spring into the late fall season. Although crankbaits can catch fish in open water, they will bring in predominately more fish when bumping into cover or ripping through aquatic vegetation. In general, a medium diving crankbait that runs 6 to 10 feet deep will catch fish in almost all lakes. The real bonus of fishing with a crankbait is they will catch any game fish that swim in lakes, from catfish, crappie, and sunfish to largemouth bass.

Another productive tool for finding and catching fish in lakes is a jig lure. Jigs, like the Berkley Horizontal Atomic Mite, come in several styles and countless color patterns. Styles range from ultralight, life-like crappie jigs to heavy-weight, grass punching jigs. For crappie fishing, anglers can use a float to suspend the jig near or next to cover; letting wave action or light tugs on the float make the lure swing back and forth, for a life-like appearance. Another technique is to cast out and reel slowly near standing timber or brush where crappies are likely to be located. The easiest time to catch crappie on a jig is when they move to more shallow areas in order to spawn. Otherwise, deeper brush piles or PVC fish attractors draw crappie all year round.

The other popular jig for fishing is a bass jig. Bass jigs come in different styles for various jig techniques. A football-head jig is made to be dragged across the bottom of the lake to resemble a crawfish, whereas a swim jig is made for swimming through grass and resembles either a sunfish or crawfish. One other jig type is a round-head finesse jig that can catch bass in most situations, but excels when fished around boat docks and cover. Different jig heads for different presentations. A characteristic of jigs that you will see across the board is a trailer attached to the head. Trailers can be made of pork rind or soft plastic. The majority of trailers have a crawfish or shad-shaped body. It's common for anglers to have the trailer color contrast the jig color to attract more bass. Jigs catch fish year round by rocks, spawning beds, aquatic vegetation, brush, standing timber, lay downs, boat docks, and any other cover or structure in a lake.

Of all six lure styles, a plastic worm will offer the most versatility. Plastic worms are available in a number of styles from ribbon-tail to finesse worms. Choosing which worm to use boils down to the angler’s personal preference. In general, big or long ribbon-tail worms are good in summer months when fish are active or when fishing for giant bass, while smaller straight tail finesse worms catch fish when conditions are tough. A worm can be rigged several ways including a Texas rig, Carolina rig, or a wacky rig. A Texas rig can be fished anywhere and during any time of year, but you will see it excel in situations where you are forced to fish around cover. A Carolina rig can be used to fish deep water quickly or find offshore deep water honey holes. A wacky worm shines in the springtime when bass are shallow getting ready to spawn, or are holding around spawning beds. What color worm should you fish with? The Berkley Powerbait Power Worm in the green pumpkin color is, by far, the color of worm that catches the most fish. Please keep in mind that certain colors catch more fish in different lakes or areas like Junebug in Florida and PB&J in the Ozarks.

One thing these lures have in common is their ability to be fished from shore, in a boat, or on a boat dock. That means you only need one small tackle bag to carry your six "must-have" bass lures with you at all times.

What is the best bass fishing lure in your opinion and how / where do you fish with it? Share with others by leaving a comment below on the outdoor news section and find all your fishing sporting goods at PoorFish Outdoors.